Friday, April 18, 2008

Split

In the morning, I got up bright and early and hurried out the door to make sure I got to the bus station on time. I left the key in the mail slot like Mile instructed several times over the night before, waving her hands in all different directions and talking loudly so I would understand her. I understood perfectly what she wanted me to do the first time she said it in a quieter conversational voice, but yelling loudly just seemed to her like it might drive the point home.

It was raining pretty hard when I got out the door, and I totally ate it down the stairs, I was soaked, but I was glad no one was around to see it. It would have added insult to injury to have to try to play off like I didn't just take a nosedive down a flight of stairs, to a bunch of kids who's language I can't speak. Despite the setback, I made it just fine to the bus, and boarded. It took almost 6 hours to finally make it to Split, but we did finally get there. The bus driver had taken more rest stops than my mother on the drive to Chico. He must have had the bladder the size of a walnut, or maybe he'd just been saving it up since grade school. Whatever the case, it didn't matter because I was happy to finally be off the bus. I've noticed that I do pretty well sitting in one place for such a long time, but as soon as I get off the bus is when I have trouble. I find my legs won't do anything I tell them for the first few minutes, they do whatever they seem to want to do, and I'm just along for the ride. I try to walk normally, but it takes a second to remember how, and my hip joints click and rattle inside me. I play it off, making it seem as if that's just how Americans walk, it's a John Wayne sort of thing.

I "walked" to the train station, which was just about 100 meters away, and asked when I could get on the next train to Zagreb. I explained to them that I was trying to get to Budapest, and needed to catch a train through Zagreb. The woman at the counter was very helpful. She told me there was a train leaving very soon, however she said I'd probably want the next one leaving at 10pm because if I took the day train, I'd be stuck in Zagreb because there's no night train to Budapest from Zagreb. She said if I take the night train from here, I won't have to pay for a hotel for the night, and I can just go right from here where there's another train from Zagreb to Budapest leaving 50 minutes after the night train arrives tomorrow morning. From there it'll take till about 5pm to get into Budapest. I thanked her, and said I'd take her advice. I'd rather hang around here in Split till 10 tonight, then try to find a hotel for the night in Zagreb. As we had arrived here earlier in the bus, the sky cleared up beautifully, and the sun was shining, so this would be the place to spend the day before heading off to Zagreb.

I left my backpack with the luggage room at the bus station, and went out exploring Split. The day the absolutely beautiful! The wind had blown all the clouds out of the sky, and the sun was warm and comforting. I first walked through the downtown area passing by the little shops and open markets. I found a cool park, with a fountain in the center, and walked through it admiring its beauty. I also very much admired the fact that women in Split seemed a whole lot cuter than elsewhere in Croatia, and I often times almost forgot I wasn't back in Laguna Beach. The streets looked a lot like Laguna Beach, and the layout of the city seemed similar as well. The main road, and downtown area was right along the sea, and then further inland, up the hills was where all the residential areas were. I wondered through a couple residential streets, just to see what they were like, and they seemed friendly enough, kids were playing on the streets, and people were out walking their dogs. I tried to look friendly myself, but of course, I still looked quite haggardly. I've been wearing the same clothes for the past week, I haven't had a shower in 3 days, and I've been sitting on a bus for the past 6 hours. I looked utterly homeless.

Eventually, I made my way down to the harbor area, and walked around it looking for some kind of beach that maybe I relax on. Eventually I found something similar to what I was looking for. There was a little shore with a walkway and park benches right along the sand. I was exhausted from the bus ride, so I felt this was a perfect time to take a nap. I crawled onto one of the park benches under the shade of a tree, and using my sweater as a pillow, I fell asleep to the sound of the waves.

When I awoke only about an hour later, I decided to keep walking, and see how far the little walking trail went. I followed it around, finding all sorts of little cafe's, and white pebbled beaches. At times when I found these little places I sat down next to the water and tossed pebbles into the tiny waves. I was amazed at how clear the water was. It looked like molten glass. It was almost as If I touched it, it would be a hard surface I could walk on. When I threw in a pebble it made a soft "Thwunk" sound and sank slowly to the bottom, and I could see it fall all the way down. I found another little harbor further on full of salty old men playing Botchi Ball. I felt that looking and smelling as I did, this is where I fit in the best. I stayed a while and watched their game, and walked through the forest of boats docked up in the harbor. I want a boat someday. I'd love to just pack up, and sail off to wherever the wind takes me. I'd rather not have a big showy speed boat, although any boat would probably do, but I want a crusty old sail boat with rotting wood, and lots of character. I saw some boats in Dubrovnik which were amazing! They were sailboats all made up to look like old fashioned tall ships, with a crow's nest on the mast, and a captain's quarters, and even a mermaid sculpture on the bow. I would love a little ship like that. Maybe someday I'll get myself one.

For dinner, I ate at one of the little cafe's near the harbor, and for dessert I found a pastry shop, and bought some fruit filled pastries, and watched the sun set over the hills. It was a great day.

I found my way back to the bus station and picked up my bags, and then sat out on the platform waiting for my train. As I waited, I wrote in my music journal Amy made for me, and smoked my pipe. I talked to a homeless woman sitting next to me. We were laughing because every time I tried to light a match to light my pipe, the wind came up and blew it out. I went through like 5 matches before I finally could keep one lit. I finished my pipe just as the train arrived, and climbed on. I'm on the train right now. I'll be in Zagreb in the morning, I think some time around 6 or 7am, and then I catch the next train to Budapest, which should arrive at 5pm. It'll be a heck of a long train excursion. But I had a wonderful day in Split, so I feel ready for it.
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5 comments:

Katie Jane said...

See if you can get some cool pictures of the countryside as you travel to Zagreb, and from there to Budapest. I'd bet it's amazing!!

Xoxo
Katherine

Amy Reams said...

Speaking of pictures... post some soon! Sounds like an awesome day, I'm so glad. I'm also glad you're getting some use out of your journal! I love you!
Amy

Pam said...

Tyler...it's Pam Nipelle from church here. 1st I am loving reading your blog each day! It takes me back to my own 3 month journey through Europe with a backpack. I have been wanting to write you and let you know that a good way to save money is to take overnight trains. Since you have a Eurail it covers travel and lodging in one fell swoop and you don't waste the evening just sleeping in town and traveling all day to the next one. We're all praying for your journey. Pam

Jordan Gash said...

Hey brother! Man, I sure wish I could be there with you! That'd be awesome......cuz then I could have seen you eat it down the stairs and could make fun of you when you walk like a weirdie after bus rides! Hahahaha! Only your best friend could say that. Love you buddy!

....though I'm sure you wouldn't be at a lack of stuff to laugh at me for, either. It'd be great.

Wil said...

Tyler...I miss you bud. I am glad that you are having fun and are meeting all sorts of interesting people. Dude...you won't be able to come to the bachelor party though. It's on the 24th. Sorry. But we will do something before or after the wedding...a while after. I still wish that I could have come with you. But I am barely getting by with the money that I have. Oh well. I am glad you are having fun. Love you man.

Be safe and God bless.