Discovering Jerusalem

This morning I got up and finally was able to take a shower for the first time in like 3 days. There wasn't a lot of hot water, but it was fine. I was just happy to be somewhat clean again. After my shower I had to sit down and figure out what I was going to do about the living situation. The hostel I was currently in was costing me 75 sheckles a night, which was more than I was willing to spend for what I was getting. So I looked at my map, and tried to figure out where another alternative would be. I had been told by the man at the front desk of my hostel that prettymuch all the hostels in Old City would be booked, or have their prices raised at this time because of the hollidays, so I thought I might go outside Old City and look for a lower end hotel, because at least there if I'm going to spend some money, I'm going to have my own room and a hot shower, and I'll be able to pay with a credit card where the hostels only take cash. I found one on the map called The David Citadel which was not far, so I started heading in that direction, but on the way I saw a currency exchange place that had a hostel above it. The sign caught my eye because it said "credit cards accepted." So I thought I'd give it a shot, so I walked up to the reception and asked if there were any rooms for the night, and low and behold there were at only 45 sheckles a night. So I booked a room there instead.

I met some of my roommates on the way in, all of which are American, and they're all really great people. I taked to them a bit, and then I went out to explore the city now that I knew where I was going to be tonight. I covered a lot of ground. I first found my way over to Gethsemani and the Mount of Olives where I saw the tombs of Jehosephat, and Zachariah, and I got to see the Tomb of the Virgin Mary (which is right accross the street from Gethsemani). In the Garden of Gethsemani there's a huge church devoted to the spot, and of course there are a bunch of tourists taking pictures inside, which for some reason is allowed. I hate seeing people take pictures of the inside of a holy church or cathedral. I just think it's disrespectful. It's ok to take pictures of the outside, but the inside I think should be kept sacred. I didn't take any pictures of ther inside of The Holy Sepulchre, and Golgotha even though it seemed to be allowed and people were doing it. I even felt bad taking pictures of Gethsemani, but it was so beautiful, I had to.

After Gethsemani, I walked up and saw the Wailing Wall. At first I walked over to it throught the women's side, and I wondered why I didn't see any men there. Finally a woman can up to me and told me I was on the wrong side, and pointed me to the men's entrance. I didn't realize the wall was sectioned off that way, but evidently men and women here go to separate areas to pray.

I sat there and put my hand on the wall for a moment or two, and said a little prayer. From there I followed the wall into what seemed to be a huge Jewish library, and still along the wall were several Hassidic Jews praying, and chanting in their full Jewish attire. I wondered if I was allowed to be in there, but I tried to be as reverent as I could be and no one said anything about it. Afterwards, I tried to get to the Dome of the Rock, but it was all sectioned off, and they weren't letting any foreigners near the area (I was told it's because of the Holiday). So I walked back to my hostel and took it easy for a bit, took a nap, and just re-energized before going out to find food. The cost in most places here for a Falafel or Kebab is 30-35 shekels, but I learned from one of my roommates of a place at the Damascus Gate that sells them for 5 shekels. It's a little bit of a walk, but it was totally worth it to pay so little for such good food. After dinner I walked the city abit at about sunset. Shops started closing up in the early night, so I figured it'd be a good idea to start my way back. I got lost only once of the way back, but not for very long. The streets here all look very similar, you have to remember where you've been. When I made it back to the hostel, I sat out on the balcony, and watched the streets. The shops all close pretty early, but there are always people on the streets.

As I sat there I smoked my pipe, and talked with a fellow American traveler named Eric who was sitting on the balcony next door wearing the same hat I had on. He's from Washington state, and he had been traveling around for 3 months also, but he started in Asia and this was his final stop before going home. I asked him if the journey changed him at all, and he told me he didn't know. He said change of that sort is not really something you can see in yourself while you're here, but others see it when you get back. We talked and smoked and watched the night unfold in Jerusalem. It was not such a bad way to spend a day.

Tomorrow is Easter. I don't know what it'll be like here, or where I'll be able to get, so I guess I'm just going to play it by ear. Eventually I'm going to get to Bethlehem because it's currently open to tourists, and some of the Americans here said it was great. I got an email from John Gash's friends John and Una. They said I could call them tomorrow, and meet up with them. They gave me some ideas for some hostels, but all the ones they gave me were more expensive than the one I have. They didn't mention anything about me staying with them or anything, so I don't want to really push that, but I'll call them tomorrow, and see where they are. I hope you all have a Happy Easter. I love you all very much.
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